WFA is required for more difficult and remote trips. No leader is perfect. You can improve areas of weakness, but you can also use the strengths of your group to balance them out. Find a leadership style that works for you, and be authentic. Finally, as a leader, you should lift your group up. Figure out how to motivate your group to see beyond the challenges of a tough trail, to the possibility of how beautiful it will be at the summit.
Use group goals to motivate people to their full potential. To do this you need to have a good understanding of what a group or individual wants to get out of their outdoor experience. Sometimes this can be accomplished simply by a quick go-around at the trailhead at the start of the day. Check in with your group throughout the day to keep tabs on how people are feeling.
Carter Nadolsky has been involved in the Youth Education Program in a variety of roles for the past eight years. He has made a progression from camper, to volunteer, to staff, and is a unique example of leadership development in action here at the CMC.
How old were you when you started in YEP? How were you involved when you first started? I was 8 years old when I was first involved in the Youth Education Program. I was in the Intro to Rock Climbing Camp. How old are you now and how are you involved with YEP these days? What was your progression through the program how did you go from camper to paid staff member? The process I went through from camper to employee was: 1. I did most of the rock climbing camps. I volunteered for a good chunk of time with YEP.
I became an employee. After getting halfway up I was scared out of my mind. The feeling of success was nothing I had ever felt before. What have you learned about being a leader through your experiences with YEP? That is problem solving. You need to quickly think of a whole new way to teach and present the problem.
Do you have any advice for other kids or teens on how they can become leaders in the outdoor field? My advice for other people interested in becoming leaders in the outdoor field is to volunteer. There is so much you can learn by watching these great people do what they love to do and educate others about the outdoors at the same time. Even though the snow has disappeared from lower elevations, ideal conditions for kicking steps exist up high.
A climber heads up the slopes of Ruby Peak in the Elk Mountains. Photo by Mike Zawaski. The paragraphs that follow are meant to illustrate the benefits of knowing how to travel safely over snow, and to inspire any reader to spend a few sunny summer days learning these fundamental mountaineering skills.
The Paintbrush and Cascade Canyon Loop in Grand Teton National Park is beautiful, but so popular in July and August that you might get turned away because the camping spots have all been taken. Park Service rangers are inclined to discourage hikers from attempting the route before the snow has melted entirely because, when the steepest por The next day we encountered the pass separating the two canyons. It would have been treacherous for an unprepared hiker.
During the early morning the snow was firm and a set of tracks in the snow marked the hiking trail. Late May through early July is an ideal time for getting up to the high country. The days are long, the air is cool, and less people are in the mountains.
The other enticing component of early summer is that winter snow may cover long slopes of talus that makes ascending snow easy and descending a joy. Of course, this depends on your perspective. I hope to entice you into joining the camp who enjoys snow. Knowing how to kick some steps up and down a snow slope opens many doors for outdoor travel. While climbing peaks may not be your thing, it is very common to hike a long gentle, dry trail for hours only to encounter a short section of snow at a mountain pass that prevents some people from making it to their final destination or completing their loop hike.
Yes, you will miss most of the summer wildflowers, but fewer bugs, fewer people, and great snow are excellent incentives. My girlfriend and I once hiked up Paintbrush Canyon in June. Snow was plentiful, especially on the north-facing aspects of the canyon. The benefit of having a trail is that it makes finding the way.
But when everyone walks on the same snowcovered area, the snow gets compressed and freezes solid. So there we were, over a mile from the steep slopes on the pass, faced with the most difficult snow we would experience during the entire trip. So we pulled out our axes and proceeded to kick and chop steps as necessary. Safely beyond this steep section, we were left to find our own way as the hiking trail was completely buried by snow, and faint footprints in the snow led in a multitude of directions.
Our confidence on. On our way back to the trailhead, we were stopped by a pair of hikers looking for information on the route we just completed. One of the most common suggestions I make to people who ask me about becoming more proficient moving on snow is that they should sacrifice a little bit of their free time purely working to improve their skills.
Find yourself a gentle snow slope with a safe run out. When the snow is still plentiful in May and June, practice locations are abundant; however, as summer con-. Knowing how to kick steps and use an ice ax opens up hiking routes like this in the Elk Mountains during June. We also picked this steeper route because it faced more to the south, which allowed the snow to soften earlier so we could kick steps more easily.
On our way down. They were visibly disappointed, but we never saw them again to find out whether they reached the pass or not. This is just one of the examples I can think of from my experience where having basic snow travel skills gave me the confidence to travel in snowy terrain and thus, experience some beautiful places that others were unable to see. The ben-. Describing the techniques for kicking steps or using an ax are outside the scope of this article, but my purpose is to motivate you to want to learn, not to instruct you how.
So what are the advantages of carrying an ice ax? An ax does add a little weight to your pack, but it is an essential tool for helping you maintain balance. While the consequences of sliding down this gully in Rocky Mountain National Park seem high, the likelihood of falling and sliding is low because the snow has softened to a point where kicking steps and self-arresting are easy. Many of us have gone on long hikes into the high country without seeing any snow from the trailhead, but sure enough, just before getting to a pass, a short section of snow blocks our path.
Whether you have an ice ax or not, what you should do is the focus of this article. Before getting into the specific details, here are two concepts to ponder. The first concept to consider is the probability of falling versus the consequences of that fall on the slope you are thinking about climbing. If you are experienced kicking The consequences of a fall might be your main factor for determining whether you continue on or turn around.
For example, if the consequences of falling are high; i. On the other hand, if only a short steep section exists right off the trail and falling means a short slide onto a flat surface, you might consider continuing on. For the second concept, one of the most common places people fall are at locations where the terrain changes in some way; climbers refer to them as transition zones.
Examples include moving from low angled to steep snow, transitioning from rock onto snow, or traveling along a snowy section where the consequences of a fall mean you will slide much farther than you would have a few feet before. The reason accidents occur is because people fail to adjust their technique or equipment until it is too late. So if you plan to climb up the snow, recognize that you are at a transition zone so it will be important to kick good steps right away.
Now that you are equipped with these ideas, here are some specific techniques you can use if you intend to head up or down the snow. Of course, if you can avoid the snow altogether and travel on rock or dry ground this may be preferable. I generally avoid traveling around the snow because this tramples the fragile alpine vegetation.
If traveling on snow is your only option, often, the path taken. Because the snow other hikers have kicked steps into may be very firm or icy, especially in the early morning, follow their path only if the steps are large enough to step on or soft enough so that you can improve them. Trying to tiptoe on icy steps is a recipe for falling. Instead, choose the shortest route, with the lowest consequences of falling, and the softest snow. The softest snow is usually on the slopes that face most directly toward the sun.
The consistency of the snow can vary dramatically over a few feet if one area receives more direct sunlight. Eastfacing slopes will soften first each day, then south facing, and finally west-facing slopes. North-facing slopes will receive some sunlight in summer, but they will be the slowest to soften. Put on your gloves, tighten your laces, cinch up your gaiters, and put on a jacket if the snow crossing is going to take a while.
If you have an ice ax or ski pole, take it out. The rock should be as light as possible, but large enough to hold in your hand and allow you to stab at the snow and create a small platform to stand up. Kicking good steps should be your primary means of security.
Kick like. Also realize that you may need to kick multiple times to make a good step. If you fall, an ice ax is your best tool for stopping yourself. Practice this skill; the faster you are sliding, the harder it will be to stop yourself, so being proficient getting into the self-arrest position is essential to help you keep a slip from turning into a long slide. If the snow is very firm, it is unlikely you will stop yourself if you fall.
Even if the snow is soft and I am without an ax, I may bring along a rock to assist me in stopping myself if I fall. To do this, put one hand at the top of the rock and the other lower down while pulling your arms in tight so your weight pushes the rock into the snow. Stopping yourself by using your ski pole is done in a similar manner.
Grab the pole with one hand about two feet up from the bottom and the other a foot up from the bottom. Now pull your lower arm in so the pole is tucked into your armpit. For either technique, your toes will dig into the snow bet-. Each of these techniques has their advantages and disadvantages so I encourage you to practice before you must do this for real. Because descending steep snow is more difficult than ascending, plan your day accordingly.
If the pass you plan to go down faces east and it has been cold at night, you may want to descend early while the snow is in the sun so it is soft. People think of winter as a time for climbing snow because snow is most abundant, but late spring and early summer are really the ideal times because the avalanche danger is low and the snow is firm enough for you to stay on top. Many beautiful volcanoes are covered in snow year-round in.
Snow Travel is the culmination of his experience climbing snowy peaks from Alaska to Peru, and all throughout the Western United States. It has also come from his 17 years of experience instructing courses and training staff at the Colorado Outward Bound School. Zawaski runs an educational nonprofit, the Observant Naturalist www.
He also teaches college courses in astronomy, geology, and meteorology at Front Range Community College. He has published science research in the field of archaeoastronomy and geology. His work in archaeoastronomy has been to survey Inca monuments in Peru to help understand how the Inca used astronomy in their culture. As a geologist for the Colorado Geological Survey, Zawaski helped complete the field work necessary to create three 7.
This expansive how-to book covers all the fundamental techniques for kicking steps; using an ice ax and crampons; and for traversing, resting on, and traveling up and down snow. In addition, precise descriptions of such techniques as climbing over a lip, the decision-making process, how to choose a route, snow hazards, putting on and removing skis on a steep slope, and self-arresting with ski poles are examined in this one-of-a-kind guide.
Available now from Mountaineers Books! A limited number of copies are available at the Colorado Mountain Club. We ran through our cache of power bars, balance bars, and hammer gel about six hikes back. None exist in Peru. Our mis adventure took place in the Andes of Peru. My favorite type of hike involves an ontrail ascent of between 2, and 3, feet, followed by a mellow descent and a celebratory meal.
Part of our trek was a climb that appeared on my fairly vague map meter contour lines up to a spectacular 14,foot tundra pass. We had trekked the pass before with our Peruvian friend Adela. It offered spectacular views of five snow-covered peaks over 18, feet.
Our planned descent from the pass would bring us just a few mellow kilometers down to a little village where we would find food and transportation home to our cabin. A strict constructionist would have insisted on at least 10 liters of water for our anticipated 4- to 6-hour climb at 12, to 14, feet. We had two! Unfortunately, one map was rather causal in its approach to elevation changes and the other showed terrain only as far east as the halfway point of our expected stroll.
We were in the high desert. We carried windshirts, good rain jackets, space blankets, hats, and extra socks. Mary selected for the occasion Capri length hiking pants. I had boring standard lightweight convertible zip-offs. I pointed to the canyon trail and asked, in Spanish, if that was the route to the pass I had in mind. We had crossed the valley where I expected to find our trail.
It appeared we needed to climb and descend two more summits, feet each, to get to the next valley, where surely our path lay. Mary, who lacks my passion for discovery, suggested we turn around. I suggested that we advance a bit off-trail to search for a secondary trail that might circumnavigate the two summits that seemed to be discouraging her.
As leader, I confidently strode ahead, working my way around a sandy cactus-infested pile of boulders. My confidence was dealt a blow as a sandy ledge disintegrated under me, and I slid about 15 feet toward a much longer and steeper drop before a lone but sturdy mountain mahogany stopped me. As any conscientious and supportive leader would, I asked Mary to route-find for a while.
She decided to head lower and exit from this side valley into the broad Urubamba River valley, far below us. As we descended, the faint trail disappeared into a series of high steep terraces, once carved out for farming but now overgrown with yucca, prickly pear, and other cacti. By pm, we were within an hour of darkness and decided we had no choice but to spend the night.
Our food and water was mostly gone now. The hot sun and hard climbing had taken its toll. It rained intermittently throughout the night. We were wearing all the clothing we carried and slept between our two space blankets and poncho.
Gravity had its way with us and we slid down-slope into the cacti just below us. It was about 32 degrees by morning with a light glaze of ice on the ground. At daybreak, we packed up and started hiking. Still no trail in sight, but after three hours of Class 3 climbing, we could see a trail that headed toward the main river valley. After a couple of hours on this walking path, we saw the town of Urquillos. It lay a couple of thousand feet below us but only about a single kilometer in distance.
Rejoicing, we immediately began to plan our imminent purchase of food and drink. But by noon, we could see trails descending to the town but no connections with our current trail. We attempted to descend the slope that lay between us and the town, but it was so steep we fell repeatedly. Fortunately, the abundant spiny yucca and prickly pear cactus we had come to know so well kept us from sliding very far.
With the town so clearly in sight, we had a strong signal on our Peruvian cell phone. We phoned our local friends, Adela and Adolfo. They offered to bring us food and water and help us descend. However, they were unfamiliar with the area, and had difficulty believing we were not somewhere near the standard route above the town, on the opposite side of the canyon from our ledge.
After a couple of frustrating hours of my trying to guide their search for us, Mary offered to descend on her own to the town and lead our friends to our ledge. I was too weak from dehydration to accompany her. While Mary hiked down, I, somewhat feebly, waved our space blankets to try to draw the attention of our friends below.
I used my newfound energy to worry about Mary. At pm, more than two and a half hours after Mary left, I heard a whistle, feeble but distinct, responding. Excited, I signaled more frequently, getting only occasional responses. She responded weakly. She was resting on a ledge about feet below me. I asked if she had our friends with her. The absence of a response confirmed my feeling that she was alone.
When Mary appeared, her face was ashen from exhaustion after hiking for more than three hours. She had hiked down in the rain to an area close to the town but separated by a foot sheer cliff. By now it was dark and raining again. At 7 pm, Adela had the police from the town below on the phone with us. We were close enough for them to see our flashlight signal. The National officer told me we were also beyond his jurisdiction, but he would contact the local National Police High Altitude Rescue unit who could reach us by 10 pm.
Food and hot drink, it sounded too good to be true. Well, it was. The rescue unit remained uncertain about our exact location. They found a local farmer who knew the general route we had taken, and started their search back at the trailhead, which we left some 40 hours earlier. The revised arrival time was 3 am. They told us not to move welcomed advice! By now it was snowing and quite cold. Mary, exhausted, hungry, and dehydrated from her heroic effort, was extremely cold.
I worried about hypothermia in the snow and wind, which had steadily increased. She managed to sleep as I rubbed her shoulders and back to keep her warm. We improved our situation somewhat by using our handy umbrella as a windscreen. At 3 am I heard someone shouting my name. I roused Mary. It may save your life one day. Make sure you have complete coverage of your planned route. A waypoint location will help rescuers immensely.
She slowly moved to her feet and waved the flashlight in the air as I sounded the whistle. To no avail, however, as the searchers were somewhere above us. The small tree sheltering us was apparently blocking our light from their view. We were a bit discouraged, but cheered that the team was close. Mary fell back asleep, and I continued to listen to my iPod the 11th Essential in my opinion and awaited dawn. Just as the horizon began to lighten, I again heard my name being called.
This time, our rescuers spotted our light very quickly, and surrounded us immediately, offering hot tea, drinks, and food. They then led us on the climb out. They told us that the descent to the town that seemed so close was actually impossible without full technical climbing gear for rappelling down. The trail connections that had existed in the past had been wiped out by rainy season landslides.
It took nine more hours to return to the place we had started. Several more rescue staff joined us along the way with more drinks and snacks, and to help take some of the burden off the original rescue squad. All the officers were incredibly fit, sympathetic, and professional. The police arranged transport to Cusco for us, where they insisted we be checked out medically. We wanted only to return to the cabin and sleep.
After three IV bottles apiece, and a case of electrolyte replacement fluids, we were able to return to our cabin the next day. Left to right: Albert R. Ellingwood, Barton Hoag, and Eleanor Davis take a break after a successful climb. Courtesy Colorado Mountain Club Archives. I moved to Colorado a mere six months ago, just a few short weeks before I started my tenure with the Colorado Mountain Club.
With over 10 years of experience with nonprofits and volunteer-run organizations, I have never seen individuals with the same level of passion, commitment, and dedication as I have seen at the CMC. Talk about a task! While it may be far from exhaustive, it has been eye opening and inspiring for this young mountaineer hopeful, new to Colorado. In any given year, Adventure Travel leads up to 20 trips domestically and abroad, including countries as unique and diverse as New Zealand, Nepal, Russia, and Argentina.
One of the legacy Adventure Travel trips includes a trip to climb Mount Kilimanjaro. On this trip, participants stay in the same lodge as they did when the outing was first offered, in part because the lodge is still owned by the same family. Henry Bradford Washburn Jr. He first climbed Mount Washington at the age of Two years later, his mother gave him his first camera, a Kodak Brownie, the point-and-shoot of the day.
He remained passionate about climbing and. Each year, the museum honors individuals for their accomplishments both on and off the mountain by inducting them into the Hall of Mountaineering Excellence. The San Juan Group was formed in The Colorado Mountain Club currently has 6, active members.
This number includes Year members. And Life members. CMC Press publishes approximately three to four new books per year. As one of the first organizations devoted to the Colorado mountains, the Colorado Mountain Club is the official repository for summit registers for all of the Fourteeners. In fact, the CMC also maintains a comprehensive list of each person who has climbed all 54 of the Fourteeners. Many famous mountaineers have been members of the Colorado Mountain Club.
A charter member of the CMC, the aforementioned Carl Blaurock often stood on his head after completing a climb. Another founding member was Mary Sabin, who, in , wrote a series of articles in the Rocky Mountain News about the prospect of forming a mountain club. As part of the year anniversary celebration, CMC members summited every publicly owned Fourteener in the state, getting approximately climbers up and down safely—some of them making some pretty gnarly ascents, others climbing their first-ever Fourteener.
Since then,YEP has educated over 70, students. With an annual reach of 7, students, YEP provides outdoor recreation leadership education coupled with math and science curriculum. A large percentage of those 7, students are considered low-in come or at-risk, and may be experiencing hands-on outdoor recreation adventures for the first time. YEP also manages a Gear bank that houses an inventory of outdoor recreation gear for use by nonprofit organizations with youth programs. Launching this summer, the Colorado Mountain Club is developing.
The AMC includes a climbing wall that is used for adult and youth education programs. With such unique character, the building is also home to a number of office dogs. At the CMC, this number varies, depending on the day. The Boulder Group maintains office hours at its volunteer-run office in South Boulder. The Boulder Group built the Brainard Cabin in The Boulder Group also established and maintains snowshoe trails in the area.
The CMC has had as many as 16 Groups across the state. Currently there are 14 Groups in Colorado, with Denver being the largest. In the last 10 years, the CMC has provided outdoor recreation outings for close to , adults. All of these trips have been led by past and current volunteer trip leaders. In , this number was close to !
In addition to these outings, the CMC offers intensive outdoor recreation skills schools. Last year the number of schools offered statewide was These outdoor recreation skills schools range from wilderness survival to knot tying to technical rock climbing to avalanche awareness. The founding members of the Colorado Mountain Club consisted of only 25 individuals in This number grew to less than a year later.
The first hike was to the top of South Boulder Peak a little over a month later. Around the same time the Colorado Mountain Club was being organized in Denver in , mountain enthusiasts were also organizing clubs in Colorado Springs and Boulder. The Fort Collins Group was formed in The Western Slope Group was created in The El Pueblo Group was started in A Longmont area group, Longs Peak Group, was started in Here, A YEP student enjoys a climb on a sunny day.
Photo by Brenda Porter. The first corporate member in Colorado to do this was WhiteWave Foods. Each year, the Colorado Mountain Club features world-renowned conservationists and outdoor enthusiasts as guest lecturers and presenters. During the last six months, this list has included Donny Roth, Dr.
Jon Kedrowski, and Andrew Skurka. The Colorado Mountain Club is a founding member of Outdoor Alliance Colorado—a coalition representing voices for human-powered recreation and conservation. The Wilderness Act of is celebrating its fiftieth anniversary in The Colorado Mountain Club played a significant role in the enactment of the act, which continues to benefit our mountaineers and outdoor lovers today.
In , the Colorado Mountain Club helped to push through draft legislation to protect Browns Canyon. In , the Colorado Mountain Club had 70 on-the-ground volunteer projects across Colorado. This included over 7, volunteer hours, which doubled the amount of volunteer hours from the previous year.
Some of these same couples have become avid volunteers and financial supporters of the Colorado Mountain Club. In fact in some cases, these amazing individuals leave part of their estate to the CMC. Our volunteers are second to none. Many of our volunteers donate more time and financial services than an average employee. The Colorado Mountain Club boasts numerous individuals who have volunteered for decades.
A team member cancelled, the trip was off, and I ended up in Baja California. I revived the idea in , but a CMC trip to climb in the Alps was just too good to pass up. Another cancellation; this time my fault. After recruiting a couple of good climbers and good friends, Doug Kruesi and Kurt Wibbenmeyer, it looked as if this one was a go.
We This time it was going to happen. We did some desperate Internet research about other approaches to Liberty. Ridge—all of which were long—looked into other routes, and did some general grumbling. Our flight was that evening. Maybe we could get close? The park gate is about six miles from the trailhead; could we handle the extra distance?
In keeping with the theme of the trip, our flight was over an hour late. We got our rental van in Seattle, found our hotel in the dark, and woke the night attendant. Still with no solid information, we planned to get up early and drive to the north side of the park on the assumption we could make an attempt on Liberty Ridge.
Heading out Highway , we began passing signs warning that Cayuse and Chinook passes were closed, that the highway. Although their main doors were locked, our next try, Walmart, was open. With a little more good luck, we bought their very last can of white gas. Fuel in hand, and a good breakfast at a roadside cafe improved our spirits. We passed another painted sign saying the pass was closed, but right next to it was a lighted electric sign saying it was open.
Surely the. Above 2, feet there was deep snow on both sides of the road, but the road was plowed. We entered the park and reached the turnoff for White River, just as a park ranger was locking the gate on the closed road.
That would put us just over four miles from the trailhead. However, after we arranged our gear, we were able to get to the parking area for Owyhigh Lakes, about three miles from the trailhead. We put on snowshoes, loaded up our very heavy packs, and trudged past the bulldozer working on the six feet of snow on the road.
We were at 3, feet, 10, feet below Liberty Cap; the scale of our planned climb began to sink in. One of the problems with climbing Liberty Ridge is that everything has to be carried up a technical climb and over the top. With this in mind, we had trimmed the weight as much as we could, going over gear lists again and again and throwing out everything we thought we could get by without.
We trudged up the road, with some nice views of the mountain in the distance, eventually reaching the Glacier Basin trailhead at the White River Campground. The deep snow made the trail difficult to follow in some areas, but eased the multiple stream crossings, where flooding had badly disrupted this trail.
It had been an exhausting day, but we were on our way! That night it rained. Instead of an 8- to pound expedition tent, we had brought a 2-pound GoLite Hex, a teepee-like arrangement consisting of a conical tarp, a single center pole, and a separate floor.
With no chance of anything drying in the foggy morning, it all got packed wet, and remained wet or frozen for the rest of the trip. Oh, this was going to be fun. Even with the rain and lightening, we were well rested, and were moving well. From the top of the pass we dropped a couple hundred feet onto the Winthrop Glacier and roped up.
The clouds moved in and out, providing occasional glimpses of the shattered glacier above, alternating with whiteouts, which obscured the route ahead. Perhaps a third of the way across the glacier, Doug dropped into a crevasse to his hips; it was time to start taking this a little more seriously.
We alternated leading, and made it across the glacier to Curtis Ridge. Clouds had clamped down at about 10, feet, making it difficult to discern our route. Carbon Glacier, starting from twin cirques on either side of Liberty Ridge, had chewed it away to a very steep, short, spur, rising 5, vertical feet in 6, horizontal feet.
We elected to take a quarter-mile detour down the ridge, lose a few hundred more feet, and start our crossing of the heavily crevassed Carbon Glacier from a safer start. Looking up Carbon toward our goal was intimidating; large crevasses and seracs appeared to block our way. Two possible routes presented themselves:. The route went well enough to the base of the ridge, where we had to cross a couple impressive crevasses on dubious snow bridges.
After those, we crossed a small bergschrund, and climbed to the ridge crest. The spine of the ridge is loose, fractured, volcanic rock, precariously stacked in vertical pillars. It appeared the easiest route was to climb the steep snow and ice just west of the ridge crest, crossing bands of loose rock only when necessary.
At times, it seemed that climbing the glacier along the perimeter of the cirque might be easier, but as afternoon wore on, bus-sized seracs began to break from the hanging glaciers, fall hundreds of feet, and explode into avalanches that swept the walls above the glacier. Once on the ridge, and away from the crevasses, we unroped. In most places we could probably self arrest, and in any case we were too tired to deal with protection. I found that I was panting so hard for so long that the roof of my mouth was drying and cracking.
The clouds closed around us and it began to snow. From thousands of feet below it had appeared to be a small flake on the ridge; here it was a tower feet long, 40 feet high, and 15 feet thick. Instead, we pitched the tent right next to Thumb Rock on the leeward side. What were the chances one of those rocks would fall through the tent and hit us in the night—1 in 10 maybe? After our 5,vertical-foot day with full packs, we were too tired to care; we hoped for the best.
The vantage from Thumb Rock made something else clear: We had wondered why all the route descriptions had you packing over the top. Why not set a high camp at Thumb Rock, climb to the summit with a day pack, and return? Because downclimbing, even on the relatively moderate slopes below the thumb, would be dangerous! Sure, you could do a pitch, or two, or ten; but in 2, feet the chance of making a mistake gets pretty high, and protecting the whole descent would take forever.
At times, the gusts were so violent I feared the tent would tear away. What would we do then? Sometime after midnight the winds finally calmed—peace at last, except for the ongoing thunder of falling seracs—and we got some sleep. We woke to a beautiful morning, shook the snow off our sleeping bags and out of our boots, and started gearing up for another day.
About feet out of camp we found that what had appeared to be more steep snow was about 8 inches of fresh powder over hard ice. Ice so hard and brittle that your ax bounces off; so you hit it again, harder. Out came the ropes, pickets, and our pitiful collection of three ice screws trimmed down from six to save weight. We carried on, simul-climbing when we could, and belaying when we had to. What else was there to do?
Eventually the leader cleared the ice and started putting in a screw, leaning on it as hard as possible— which is very difficult while balancing on front points—to get it to bite into the glasshard ice. The day wore on, the clouds closed in, it started snowing. We continued on.
Near 13, feet, around pm, in poor visibility and gathering twilight, I was the third man on a pitch. Eventually they remembered me, and belayed me up. Then I saw it, a slope of 50 degrees or more of ice heading up to a vertical cliff of ice. The near whiteout made it difficult to judge size and distance, but clearly we had a serious problem. The east side was rocky and fell away almost vertically, but among the rocks were little pockets that could almost be called ledges.
Perhaps 25 feet below us was one such ledge of ice, snow, and rock, about six feet wide. Sloping toward the precipice at about 20 degrees, it seemed to be our best hope for a bivi. Having a tent with no floor actually paid off in this place.
We secured it to the rocks with stoppers, rope, pickets, and whatever we could make hold, and propped up the interior pole. It was clear pads and sleeping bags would quickly slide away, so I climbed back to the ridge, secured one of our ropes to a large rock, and allowed two ends and a loop to hang down into the tent. These would be our lifelines. We attached ourselves and our packs to one of the lines with prussicks. Our boots went into the packs, and we slid into our wet, frozen sleeping bags fully clothed, hanging from our harnesses.
Much to my surprise, we slept. After relieving myself, I released the leg loops on my harness, hung from the waist belt to change the pain, and fell asleep again. In the morning, the ice above us still looked difficult, but not impossible. The first pitch was mine, and I did a climbing traverse to the left, trying for as much distance as possible before running out of protection. He placed his final screw directly into the vertical face, and could only turn it about halfway in, then hung on it—not very encouraging.
He be As I removed the other screws I was acutely aware that all three of us were now hanging on one poorly embedded ice screw. When I was belayed up, I found the others clinging to degree plus ice below yet another cliff. Oh goody, my turn—at least it was only eight feet of dead vertical. Pulling myself gracelessly over the lip brought a brief moment of relief, until I realized that just below me to the right was the edge of the serac, the full height of which we had been working our way through all morning.
A fall here would be bad. Finally getting a hold of myself, I reminded myself it was my turn, I had a job to do, and I continued up, placing my remaining screws. Kurt led another. Fifty feet into his lead he placed a picket, probably just to prove he could, then took off —never pausing, never looking back. The first feet above camp had taken us almost four hours; Doug dragged us up the next feet in 40 minutes or less.
It felt good to be making progress again. Having never climbed Rainier before, I had originally hoped to continue to the high point. But not this time; we wanted nothing more than to get down. Finally on easy ground, and going downhill, Kurt led a forced march across the mile-wide summit plateau toward the head of Winthrop Glacier.
There we hoped. Descending the Inter Glacier, we passed two other bored rangers out for a day hike. Apparently the north side of the park was staffed for the holiday weekend crowds, but with the road still closed, there was nothing for them to do.
We recovered our snowshoes and hiked out the Glacier Basin Trail. Within a couple hundred yards, he came across yet another bored park ranger, who had received a radio call from Camp Schurman that we were headed down, and was waiting to give him a ride. What service! Just to check if I had been exaggerating the difficulties in my mind, I went back to the Internet and found trip reports from the two parties who had climbed the route a week before us.
They confirmed our experience:. We made it, but not without great difficulty. Summit day was 15 hours of exhausting climbing in deep snow and hard alpine ice with a constant attack of falling ice and rock. Thinking we could make it to Camp Schurman, we started down the Emmons in good conditions, but occasional whiteouts and fatigue forced us to stop short of our goal, setting up camp in a crevasse.
Jim has climbed more than Colorado ranked peaks, including the hundred highest; along with numerous mountains in the Western States, Alaska, South and Central America, Africa, and Eurasia. Alas, it was not to be; with the road closed, no one had climbed the route, and there was no trace of a trail. We had clear skies and sun above, but a solid cloud deck below at about 12, feet.
Kurt, who had climbed the Emmons-Winthrop route before, led us down through crevasses and seracs, and even managed to point out Camp Schurman during a momentary clearing. But once we entered the clouds, we were in a full whiteout. We continued descending several hundred feet, carefully probing each step to avoid stepping in a crevasse or off a cliff.
We resigned ourselves to another unplanned bivi. Prior to this trip, I had spent a total of two unplanned nights out in my entire life; this trip alone added two more. We climbed back to a relatively flat spot and began probing—sure enough, we were standing atop a crevasse. At least it was snow on this side of the mountain, rather than ice, and, with a fair amount of effort, we were able to carve out a tent site.
We even melted snow and made dinner. As the sun set, there was a brief period of clearing, and we were able to make a plan, doing our best to memorize our tentative route in case whiteout conditions returned in the morning. Sure enough, they did. We awoke, ate, and packed in the clouds. I thought I had some feel for the route we had plotted out the night before, and offered to lead. Some slow travel, carefully probing and stepping into the great white void, a couple sketchy snow bridges, and we were headed down again.
Nevertheless, without further mishap, we three tired climbers trudged down to the ranger cabin at Camp Schurman. They were glad to see us, not only be-. Photo by Ken Nolan. This is the highest and only award that the CMC gives for mountaineering excellence. Of all places for a mountaineer to be from, Ken was born in New York City, on October 17, Those who have climbed in the Northeast can attest that although these peaks may sound puny, their ascents have elevation gains comparable to our 14ers.
In , Ken moved to Colorado, and. For a few years following graduation he assisted in teaching BMS. On a winter weekend, we would go to a well-known, huge snowdrift that would invariably accumulate at the base of Mount Audubon in the Indian Peaks Wilderness and show members how to dig their own snow caves or how to build igloos. They would then spend the night in. In the decades of the s and s, in addition to his domestic ascents, Ken participated in a number of international expeditions.
These trips took him to 18 countries—from Tibet to Chile and from Mexico to Kyrgyzstan. For the record, Ken had incredibly close calls on two of his foreign trips. The first was in in the Canadian Yukon. His team was hunkered down in camp, about two-thirds the way up the mountain, on a stormy, nasty day. It had been snowing heavily for over 30 hours.
Ken had crawled out of his tent to relieve himself dressed only in his long underwear and down booties, when entirely without warning there came a gigantic avalanche that swept him and his tent mate, Jim, several hundred feet down the mountain. Tumbling, yet frantically swimming to avoid being buried, he and Jim finally came to rest just a few feet above a precipitous cliff and certain death. He and Jim labored again, in down booties back up the slope to witness the damage.
Their camp was totally obliterated. By some miracle, while searching the completely changed landscape, they stepped on the head of one of their buried teammates, still in his collapsed VE tent, and dug out another teammate as well. The three other members of the expedition perished, including Franz Mohling, a physics professor at the University of Colorado and a former director of our Boulder Mountaineering School.
But Ken kept climbing. Eight years later he experienced another incredibly close call. For those who are not familiar, the Pamirs are near where China, Afghanistan, India, Pakistan, Kyrgyzstan, and Tajikistan all come together. Very few details were given and we were quite concerned. A few hours later we learned that many climbers had died.
Over the next couple of days, as information ever so slowly and ever so painfully came out, it continued to home right in on Jean and Ken. Cathleen and I became convinced that we had lost our friends. When all the details were finally known, it became apparent that a major avalanche had wiped out Camp I on Peak Lenin.
This event was, by far, the deadliest mountaineering accident in history. Forty-three climbers were killed, only two climbers at the camp survived, and only two of the 43 bodies were ever found. Ken and Jean were supposed to be at Camp I that day, but miraculously, they were a day behind schedule because the helicopter that was scheduled to transport them to Advanced Base Camp was grounded by bad weather.
Superlatives, however, are not needed. In this same year he climbed Aconcagua—the highest point in the Western and Southern Hemispheres. In , he completed the 12ers. Obviously Ken is a prolific climber, but he is also a prolific writer.
With encyclopedic knowledge, he keeps meticulous records of routes and approaches. He is respected as an elder statesman on Internet Web sites, where his detailed, and witty, trip reports are sources of information and inspiration for many mountaineers. He is also an accomplished photographer. This could be the end of an incredible story of achievement. I guess he was busy! By chance, in the Spring of , Ken showed up at a talk at Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder that I was also attending.
Our eyes met from across the room, and we gathered at the center aisle for a big hug. Kent Groninger is a longtime member of the Boulder Group. He was the recipient of the Ellingwood Award. Photo by Jim Petersen. The award is presented to CMC members who have exhibited tremendous leadership and service over the years, dedicating a considerable amount of effort to CMC activities, which have resulted in meaningful improvements to the club.
Her many accomplishments with the CMC include being the first woman president of the club; sponsoring the Denver Juniors for nearly 20 years; serving as chairperson of several committees; and leading In-state Outings and many trips, both abroad and in the U. As part of an American expedition, Dr.
Masters of their craft and strong, they experienced that rare, magical confluence of mountain conditions, personal readiness, and deep mutual trust that breeds extraordinary confidence. Yet as I talk with Hornbein today, he refuses to let their ascent be seen in a vacuum.
Hornbein reminds me that it was the work of many, not merely of two, that placed them on the top by a new route and that got them safely down the other side. Hornbein also highlights the positive energy of Barry Corbet, Al Auten, and Dick Emerson, who exerted tremendous effort in helping him and Unsoeld position themselves for the summit bid.
I swear. Talk about compulsive! Ken then proceeded to enlighten me. For the uninformed, the image to the right shows the fundamentals of the grid. As shown here, across the top, in descending height from left to right, are the 54 fourteen-thousand-foot peaks that the CMC recognizes as 14ers. The rows are the 12 months of the year. The inset shows how Ken is doing on the grid.
He has completed the red cells. He has climbed 37 of the 14ers, at least once, in each and every month of the year. All told, he has filled in over 80 percent of the cells. But his life is being in the mountains, in all seasons. This has led to an acceleration in the reduction in passenger numbers to around 19 per cent on London Underground and 10 per cent on buses compared to the same week the previous year, with days later in the week showing reductions larger than that average. S adiq Khan, the mayor of London, will hold an emergency meeting with business leaders today to discuss coronavirus.
The meeting at City Hall will be attended by senior leaders from trade unions, industry bodies and a range of business sectors as the mayor vows to do everything he can to support the capital during the coronavirus crisis.
The capital is in the grid of a grip of an unprecedented public health crisis and this is having a huge impact on workers and businesses of all shapes and sizes. J ust in: Ryanair says it will ground most of its European fleet over the coming days, reducing its seat capacity by up to 80pc as countries impose travel restrictions and demand collapses. Ryanair is taking immediate action to reduce operating expenses, and improve cash flows. This will involve grounding surplus aircraft, deferring all capex and share buybacks, freezing recruitment and discretionary spending, and implementing a series of voluntary leave options, temporarily suspending employment contracts, and significant reductions to working hours and payments.
Fiat Chrysler Automobiles is shutting down production at most of its European plants until March 27 in response to the coronavirus outbreak. But with coronavirus spreading deeper into the UK, the mid-cap FTSE is actually doing worse than its blue-chip brother. The index is down nearly 10pc today amid a painful sell-off, trading at its lowest level since We don't know how quickly the economy will recover, nor we do know how much damage to earnings and GDP will be wrought. The Bank of England took its first bit shot last week with an emergency 0.
We bring forward our call for the MPC to cut the Bank Rate to the effective lower bound and restart asset purchases from August to the 26 March meeting, at the latest. Andrew Bailey, who will formally take over from Mark Carney tomorrow, apparently sees the lower bound at 10bp [0. We expect the Bank to go all-in, and probably extend the asset purchases until the end of in August. T he travel and leisure sectors have borne the financial brunt of the coronavirus outbreak, with staggering losses across both sectors.
The impact appears to have hit London hotels: new data from research firm STR suggests occupancy dropped 21pc to W ith a fresh rout day on our hands, the FTSE is nearly red all over, which only a handful groups grabbing moderate gains. H ow low can markets go? They wrote:. That would bring stock back to virtually where they stood before the corona crash. T he Bank of Korea has joined the stream of central banks cutting rates in a bid to shore up their economies.
It shift its benchmark rate to a record low of 0. T he FTSE is down about 7. Delayed prices here:. Unfortunately I believe the markets for now will ignore monetary policy actions and focus on the pace of the spread of the disease and the drastic actions governments across the world take to stop it.
F lutter Entertainments, the owner of PaddyPower, has also issued a coronavirus warning this morning after the outbreak prompted widespread delays and cancellations to sports fixtures. Flutter said it is still assessing the potential impact, adding:. Quantifying the precise earnings impact on the group is difficult at this point as we do not have visibility on the duration of restrictions on sporting events.
The challenge currently facing our business and the industry more widely is unprecedented in modern times. Our focus, first and foremost, is on protecting the welfare of our employees and our customers and we will leave nothing to chance in this regard. While our near-term profitability will be impacted by the essential measures being taken globally, the board will remain focused on protecting shareholder value and managing the business through these turbulent times.
We are managing the business appropriately but do not expect to significantly mitigate the effect of the contribution lost from these sales. T he group said it was not possible to provide financial estimates for the rest of the year due to the disruption caused by the outbreak, but said it debt and funding situation remains stable. Easyjet is grounding of its aircraft across Europe with more schedule reductions to come. An unspecified number of 15, staff will be asked to take pay cuts and unpaid leave.
J ohan Lundgren, its chief executive, said:. European aviation faces a precarious future and it is clear that coordinated government backing will be required to ensure the industry survives and is able to continue to operate when the crisis is over. It comes after the group warned that it was having to urgently assess its liquidity conditions. Trading in sister company NMC Health, which is also suspended, was frozen a few weeks ago.
E xtending fall from Friday, the pan-continental European benchmark Stoxx has dropped about 5pc, hitting its lowest level since July T he FTSE has been knocked to its lowest level since late T he FTSE is set to drop about 5pc at the open, based on to futures data.
G ood morning. Those who fail to accelerate their changes risk being booted by investors. An upcoming auction for the luxury fashion chain has been postponed with Covid creating bedlam in the retail industry. The central bank also decided to create a new loan programme to extend one-year, zero-rate loans to financial institutions in an effort to boost lending to firms hit by the virus outbreak.
The BOJ will take additional monetary easing steps as needed without hesitation with a close eye on the impact from the coronavirus epidemic for the time being. In a bid to prevent credit markets from freezing up, the central bank will also set aside 2 trillion yen for additional purchases of commercial paper and corporate bonds. The BOJ left unchanged its S tocks are mostly down as investors digest the Fed's latest move. Shanghai blue chips fell 1.
O il prices extended the gloom on Monday after a Saudi-Russian price war and an equities meltdown sparked by the coronavirus pandemic saw their biggest weekly losses in more than a decade. O fficial data shows China's industrial production, retail sales and investment all contracted in the first two months of the year after the coronavirus epidemic wreaked havoc on the economy. Industrial production for January and February shrank H ong Kong stocks has opened with more losses, following the lead of Australia's plunge.
The benchmark Shanghai Composite Index dipped 0. The truly terrifying aspect of the coronavirus crisis is the speed at which it is paralysing the global economy and making the extraordinary — like a full percentage-point cut in interest rates by the US Federal Reserve on a Sunday evening — seem almost banal. From having rates at 1. The Nikkei index lost 0. Earlier, the Bank of Japan said it would hold an emergency policy meeting to discuss monetary policy in light of recent economic and financial developments.
E uropean Union finance ministers plan to agree on Monday on a coordinated economic response to the coronavirus pandemic, with the European Commission forecasting the effects of the virus could push the EU into a recession. The so-called Eurogroup of ministers will discuss by videoconference how to limit the effects of the spread of the Covid virus. Europe must respond vigorously to this enormous threat to our society.
Tomorrow at 15h CET I will lead a video call with EU finance ministers on our response to the spread of the coronavirus. T he economic challenge facing the nation bloc and the 19 countries sharing the euro is similar to the sub-prime mortgage crisis in the United States that hit Europe in At that time, expecting a recession in , EU leaders agreed to pump in 1.
The euro zone economy shrank 4. The extent of the action, taken ahead of the Fed's regularly scheduled meeting that had been set for Tuesday and Wednesday, signalled to some investors that the central bank was very concerned about the economy. Nasdaq e-minis were down Dow e-minis were down 1, points, or 4. We urge you to turn off your ad blocker for The Telegraph website so that you can continue to access our quality content in the future. Visit our adblocking instructions page.
Telegraph Business. Ulrik Bengtsson, chief executive, said: These are truly unprecedented times but William Hill has been around for 86 years and over that time we have gained huge experience and understanding of our customers. Shares closed My colleague Vinjeru Mkandawire reports: The funds business priced at a lower offer price of p per share on the London Stock Exchange, after initially seeking a price range of between p and p.
Ms Von der Leyen said G7 leaders were informed of her plans this morning. My colleague Oliver Gill reports: Operators have been plunged into crisis as passenger numbers have plummeted by a third as commuters shun travelling by train, and are appealing to ministers for a bailout.
He writes: There is one thing missing from the armoury of policy responses that we have seen so far, which if resolved would probably be the catalyst that injects some real confidence into the market. The Dow dropped just under 10pc, while the Nasdaq fell 6. The carrier said: The COVID situation is escalating by the hour and due to stagnating demand and enforced travel restrictions by authorities worldwide, Norwegian will gradually cancel most of its flights and temporarily lay off a major share of its workforce.
If, shockingly, losses somehow hit 20pc, trading would stop for the rest of the day. It was reported over the weekend that passenger numbers had fallen around 18pc last week. Meanwhile, bus operators are also appealing for help amid falling passenger numbers. It said: Virgin Atlantic will reduce its schedule, prioritising core routes based on customer demand. This change amounts approximately 80pc reduction in flights per day by 26 March. As a direct consequence we will be parking approximately 75pc of our fleet by 26 March and at points in April will go up to 85pc.
Owing to restrictions to international travel, the airline is reducing services to focus on core routes, depending on customer demand. This will be subject to constant review as the situation evolves. Our London Heathrow—Newark route will be permanently terminated with immediate effect. As a direct result of this action the airline will need to further reduce its cost base. Staff will be asked to take eight weeks unpaid leave over the next three months, with the cost spread over six months' salary, to drastically reduce costs without job losses.
Read more: A coronavirus winner: Spreadbetter Plus raises outlook Despite the upbeat update, the group is down nearly 9pc amid a major drop on the FTSE Oh dear pic. It has begun a search for a replacement. The mayor said: The capital is in the grid of a grip of an unprecedented public health crisis and this is having a huge impact on workers and businesses of all shapes and sizes.
Flutter said it is still assessing the potential impact, adding: Quantifying the precise earnings impact on the group is difficult at this point as we do not have visibility on the duration of restrictions on sporting events. Coupled with a drop in footfall at its UK stores, the group said: We are managing the business appropriately but do not expect to significantly mitigate the effect of the contribution lost from these sales.
J ohan Lundgren, its chief executive, said: European aviation faces a precarious future and it is clear that coordinated government backing will be required to ensure the industry survives and is able to continue to operate when the crisis is over. Read more: New blow for Shetty empire as Finablr seeks extra cash. The FTSE is set to open 5.
After a hastily called emergency meeting, it said: The BOJ will take additional monetary easing steps as needed without hesitation with a close eye on the impact from the coronavirus epidemic for the time being. FTSE futures 1. The Brent global benchmark was down 2. The Hang Seng Index fell 2.
You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2. You can leave a response , or trackback from your own site. I assume these guys must have a dealing desk? I really like CMC markets platform. In spite of that, the website logs me off at random times, so very difficult to follow a trade in progress.
It only takes a minute to log back in, but in a volatile forex market, that minute can cost. I trade indices. The number of requotes is unbelievable. I am always getting requoted. Would like to see 1pt spreads. Often found that they would not honor my profit limits when ftse had closed. One night, when short the market went down passed my limit. I saw that I had not been closed out.
So I closed my my limit, then entered a new buy to close the short trade. I was requoted five points, but this still gave me over thirty points more profit. I took the quote. After executing the buy, some minutes later there was an adjustment to my account to where my original limit buy order had been set. Some ten minutes later, the dealer must have realized he had to honor the requote. It gave me an extra profit.
However, I noticed I started getting more requotes than previously and had stops getting knocked out more often than before. CMC provide a reasonably good trading platform with many features that lack with others — however I find the platform very unreliable as it constantly and frequently has the habit of automatically disconnecting me or loggin me out.
It does no make any difference if I am using my mac book or the laptop — this can get very frustrating when monitoring a trade or trades. I have read that many other traders have also encountered this issue, I was hoping they would fix it — if not I would just have to stop using them altogether. Opened account couple years ago and didnt like it. Lost most of my money through bad trading and the fact that when i tried to close position on large movements price would get constant requotes lossing more money.
Instant quotes and when you click close, the price you see when closing is the price you get. Costumer services seems to be good also. My only dislike of new platform is the axis are never at even numbers like neither is the time. Tried changing all settings but nothing seems to work. CMC markets new platform look and feel is awesome. Charting features need to be worked on and screen optimisation is not great.
I asked them about this and they said they were improving it. The cash commodity concept is interesting I want to have some more information about it before I make up my mind. It may not be the apple to microsoft yet but this has the potential to really change the digital derivative marketplace. Saved my shirt last week when wheat went through the roof.
I have an account with CMC which I only use for back up. I found that when I compared the spreads with IG Index they were more or less the same until the market reversed. This caught me out to the tune of of about points on some trades that I monitored.
Oh, another downside of CMC is that all of their trades go through a dealer so you can get slippage and re quotes when the markets are at there most active — useless if you are day trade scalping. Be aware, caught me out a couple of times…. A few people moan about CMC Markets but really I think they are quite good — one of the things I like is that they always show a warning box ten minutes before major events.
More on education. Benefits of forex trading What is forex? What is ethereum? What are the risks? Cryptocurrency trading examples What are cryptocurrencies? The advance of cryptos. How do I fund my account? How do I place a trade? Do you offer a demo account? How can I switch accounts? Search for something. Spread bets and CFDs are complex instruments and come with a high risk of losing money rapidly due to leverage.
You should consider whether you understand how spread bets and CFDs work and whether you can afford to take the high risk of losing your money. Home Products Spread betting.
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Written by guidfarr. Their software can either be downloaded on to the desktop, or or accessed via a web browser. This entry is filed under Spread Betting Firms. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2. You can leave a response , or trackback from your own site.
I assume these guys must have a dealing desk? I really like CMC markets platform. In spite of that, the website logs me off at random times, so very difficult to follow a trade in progress. It only takes a minute to log back in, but in a volatile forex market, that minute can cost. I trade indices. The number of requotes is unbelievable. I am always getting requoted.
Would like to see 1pt spreads. Often found that they would not honor my profit limits when ftse had closed. One night, when short the market went down passed my limit. I saw that I had not been closed out. So I closed my my limit, then entered a new buy to close the short trade. I was requoted five points, but this still gave me over thirty points more profit.
I took the quote. After executing the buy, some minutes later there was an adjustment to my account to where my original limit buy order had been set. Some ten minutes later, the dealer must have realized he had to honor the requote.
It gave me an extra profit. However, I noticed I started getting more requotes than previously and had stops getting knocked out more often than before. CMC provide a reasonably good trading platform with many features that lack with others — however I find the platform very unreliable as it constantly and frequently has the habit of automatically disconnecting me or loggin me out.
It does no make any difference if I am using my mac book or the laptop — this can get very frustrating when monitoring a trade or trades. I have read that many other traders have also encountered this issue, I was hoping they would fix it — if not I would just have to stop using them altogether. Opened account couple years ago and didnt like it. Lost most of my money through bad trading and the fact that when i tried to close position on large movements price would get constant requotes lossing more money.
Instant quotes and when you click close, the price you see when closing is the price you get. Costumer services seems to be good also. My only dislike of new platform is the axis are never at even numbers like neither is the time. Tried changing all settings but nothing seems to work. CMC markets new platform look and feel is awesome.
Charting features need to be worked on and screen optimisation is not great. I asked them about this and they said they were improving it. The cash commodity concept is interesting I want to have some more information about it before I make up my mind. It may not be the apple to microsoft yet but this has the potential to really change the digital derivative marketplace. Saved my shirt last week when wheat went through the roof. I have an account with CMC which I only use for back up.
I found that when I compared the spreads with IG Index they were more or less the same until the market reversed. This caught me out to the tune of of about points on some trades that I monitored. CMC: Our prices are generated by taking into account the price of the underlying instrument, market condition, liquidity of the instrument, the size of any one bet, and the term of the bet. Effectively this means that our prices are always a close reflection of the underlying instrument they are based on.
FSB: How different is the platform today from what it when you launched in ? CMC: The platform has evolved based on clients needs over the years and is continually being enhanced. Recent upgrades have included a professional charting package with technical analysis application and back testing module - all free of charge to clients.
In addition, we have added features such as one click dealing, mobile trading and CMC Markets Plus, an exclusive information service with market news, daily commentary, financial diary learning tools and discussion forum.
The trading platform has a feedback facility so clients can instantly inform us as to what additional features they would like to see included and we are committed to continue enhancing MarketMaker. This is because they can access the same range of instruments, tight spreads and trading platform without having to pay any of the commission or tax that is associated with CFD trading. Tax laws can of course change. FSB: What have been the most popular subjects of spread betting activity in recent months?
Also, what betting markets do you think will be most attractive this year? CMC: It really does vary. For UK clients, the UK stock market is always a focus whether it is individual stocks or trades on the index itself. Other markets become popular as they become more volatile.
For example, currencies, gold and oil have seen some very active years recently and this has attracted many short term traders to trade these markets. With the volatility we have seen in global stock markets this year due to the China effect, stock indices remain popular and this is expected to continue.
FSB: Please describe your typical client. How sophisticated do you need to be to get involved? CMC: There probably is no "typical client. Our clients include doctors, builders, IT professionals, policemen, farmers etc. We also have many clients who have maybe only invested in shares in the past and who use spread betting as an alternative to the stock market, and as a way of gaining exposure to markets they may not have preciously considered such as commodities and currencies.
FSB: What sort of stakes are your clients trading for? Where is the bulk of the action? CMC: Again this varies. Is it possible for expatriates to use a British spread-betting company? Do you accept credit accounts? Currently, we do not offer credit accounts. FSB: What instruments are best suited to beginners? Indices, equities, shares, forex etc?
CMC: Probably the most important thing that a beginner needs to bear in mind is the risk aspect of the market traded. For example, if we look at something like Vodafone which rarely moves more than a few percent in a day, if that is trading around the p mark it would be rare to see a day where it moves more than 10 points. Compare this with the Dow Jones index, for example, where daily ranges of points are not uncommon.
However, some uncommon instruments can take somewhat a longer time to execute. Please comment. CMC: We actually offer in the region of instruments and this number is increasing all the time.